![\"Olympus](\"https:\/\/vaughtons.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/DSC_4596-scaled.jpeg\")
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The only other functions available are accessed from a small flip switch built into the camera base, which aside from proving in a battery check function, enables the self timer and on all bar the XA1 and XA2, provides +1.5EV \u00a0exposure compensation for backlit shots. \u00a0Metering relies on a pair of LR44 cells and oddly, these actually power a pair of light sensors within the camera, one controls the actual exposure, whilst the other the swinging needle in the viewfinder to indicate your exposure. \u00a0This sadly means that an XA can appear to be working fine through the viewfinder, but won’t fire the shutter as the film exposure meter is faulty. \u00a0Given the XA first arrived in 1979, it should come as no surprise that the electronics on many have failed over time and there’s no spares.<\/p>\n Film sensitivity is set by another tiny slider built under the lens housing and goes from 25 to 800 ISO on the XA and XA2, while the later XA3 and XA4 go to 1600 ISO, the later pair also includes electrical contacts in the film housing to read DX speed off a suitably encoded 35mm film can, setting the correct ISO automatically.<\/p>\n The oft derided black sheep of the XA series arrived in 1982, around the same time as the XA2, \u00a0in the shape of the “budget” XA1. \u00a0This was to all intents a repackaged Trip 35, shoehorned into a modified XA series shell. \u00a0The metering is handled by the same CDS type cell arranged around the lens that’s found on the classic Trip, so no need for batteries. \u00a0Only ISO 100 and 400 film speeds are available, while the lens was a fixed focus 35mm f4. \u00a0The other give away to being derived from the Trip is the shutter button. \u00a0The rest of the XA series have a flat red button, just a plastic panel flush with a ridge atop the middle of the camera shell that the shutter cover slides across, while the XA1 has an identical black plastic rod type button to those found on the later Trips, coming out of a hole more towards the front of the top of the camera case.<\/p>\n Along with the cameras, Olympus did a series of four matching flash units that attached to the left hand side of the camera body with a small thumbscrew. \u00a0What was essentially the standard unit was the A11, \u00a0powered by a single AA battery, OK for a bit of fairly close fill in or a head and shoulder portrait, though had rather glacial recharge times. \u00a0The A16 was a slightly bigger and more powerful unit that needed two AA batteries, and both these units were automatic, adjusting output and duration according to a light sensor which resides beside the flash head and below the window that indicated which film speed, 100 or 400 ISO, you’d set. \u00a0The A9M was supplied with the much simpler XA1, and was all manual, so a very basic flash unit. \u00a0Olympus also had a thing about “disposable” around this time and the A1L flash had what was supposed to be a “use until expired” Lithium battery built in, much the same as the AF-L Quickflash camera. \u00a0Fortunately, if you’re handy with screwdriver and soldering iron, you can replace the batteries in both. \u00a0The A1L itself was a low powered unit designed for the XA4 and suitable for macro photography.<\/p>\n One of the most divisive features on the XAs that had one, is the red flat plastic shutter release button. \u00a0Other than being prone to splitting when they got old, or falling off in general, there’s not a deal of tactile feedback to them. \u00a0They don’t depress far anyway, \u00a0a bit like a Sinclair ZX81 keyboard in many ways, as that kept out dust and the odd water droplet, so functional if nothing else.<\/p>\n In mint condition, the XA now commands what seems like silly money compared to the \u00a350 I paid for my first one in about 1983 (even after inflation!), especially if comes with the original plastic presentation box. \u00a0The XA2 and XA3 are generally cheaper, though many people prefer these for street photography as they can simply set them to the desired zone and shoot, no need to focus. \u00a0The XA1 is undoubtedly the unloved cousin in terms of value and the CDS meter on these suffers the same issue as all CDS meters if you leave them exposed to light, they stop working! \u00a0So keep the slider closed or the lens cap on. \u00a0Star of the XA series cost wise is the XA4, primarily due to low production volumes and being the only one with a 28mm lens. \u00a0There were also a few XA2s produced with coloured shells, white, blue and red, (possibly grey as well) again these command more than the standard version due to their rarity.<\/p>\n With production ending in 1991, succeeded by the Mju series of auto focus compacts, which have also gained a cult following (AKA cost stupid money for a plastic compact camera ) in recent years, you have to be careful if you’re thinking of buying one. \u00a0As mentioned the electronics can be a bit fickle, the plastics can age making them brittle and then there’s the usual issue with fungus in the lens or viewfinder, \u00a0along with general mechanics issues with hardened grease in gears etc. \u00a0Aside from leaving batteries in them and the corrosion these can cause when left untouched, \u00a0or the light seal foam going sticky and disintegrating, \u00a0it’s the electronics that seem to degrade the worst. \u00a0Repairable, yes \u00a0to a point, worth it, not unless you can do it yourself and you can find the relevant diagrams online.<\/p>\n But find a well loved worker, \u00a0put a roll of your favourite 35mm poison through it and learn to love a classic.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Mentioned in a post back in January, an old friend has returned in the shape of an Olympus XA. \u00a0This would be the third one I’ve had (or forth including a duff one that was beyond redemption!), along with an XA4 I had for for a while, which has a 28mm lens as opposed to … <\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a>